Karen in Central America - part 3

Nightlife

Nightlife is not the purpose of this trip. Our nightlife has taken the form of going to sleep ridiculously early and getting up before the roosters for a bus ride.

On Monday we took a 3.30am shuttle to the ancient Mayan acheological ruins of Tikal. Tikal is part of the one million hectare Mya Biosphere Reserve, which, when combined with adjoining reserves in Mexico and Belize, totals more than two million hectares. This region of Guatemala is called El Peten, the northeastern 'department'. It's landscape is mostly dense jungle. Tikal used to be jungle before the Mayans came in and cleared a huge area to settle and subsequently build sonte ceremonial structures (between 700 BC and 200 BC). It peaked again about 250 AD when it flourished as a big city. In the following six or seven centuries it became a powerful kingdom. And then came my favourite King: Moon Double Comb, aka Ah Cacau (Lord Chocolate!) Most of the temple ruins are from his reign. All of this was rediscovered in the mid to late 1800s and sponsorship today from the Guatemalan government, Spain, Uni of Pennsylvania and others allow continuing exporation and restoration.

Upon our arrival to the National Park, we were ordered to run through the now rainforest (even though the guide books call it jungle, it is actually rainforest) for about 1.5km to Temple IV (built by Lord Chocolate about 741AD). The pressure was on to get to the top in time for sunrise. It was a spectacular morning, clear and bright - one of the best in days. A steep wooden staircase took us near to the top of the 64 meter structure. There we sat wtih abated breath for the sun to appear in the horizon. Actually, there was a lot of heavy breathing from the large group pooped from the sprint and climb. A gaggle of noisy Israeli backpackers had to be shooshed so we could more appreciate and meditate with the experience. The sounds of the jungle were screaming - monkeys, parrots, toucans and other animals arising with the sun. Seeing Toucans was a real highlight, along with Tarantula spider, Pisotes (Coatis, like racoons), Howler and Spider Monkeys. Unfortunately we didnt get to see a Jaguar. We had an excellent tour guide, Luis Antonio Oliveros, a famous birdwatcher. After the magical sunrise and chaning colours of the morning, we had a three hour tour of the ruins. Nova and I decided to stay in the park for the rest of the day and explore. Of course we had a leisurely brung at the nearby hotel, Jaguar Inn, and had a ball wondering along the paths of the park, fighting off mosquitos and biting flies, photographing trees, roots, insects, ruins and eachother, and battling the heat. After 10 hours there, we returned to Flores - a tiny island in the middle of Lake Peten Itza. A beautiful sunset over the lake was a treat.

Go Slow

Another early morning took us across the border into Belize. We were sad to say goodbye to Guatemala as we´d had such a great time there. Along the way we drove through a very poor rural area on a half-sealed road. Every animal seemed to be free-range: chickens, horses, dogs and cows. A dodgy scam at the border crossing sees foreingers forking over 10 Quetzales (about USD$1.50) each for a non-existant, unofficial and receiptless departure fee. Nova managed to get a discount though!

After a quick wander around downtown English-speaking Belize City, we transferred by boat to Caye Caulker. This beautiful little island (pron´d: Key Corker) is only about 6.5km long by 600 metres wide. It was originally much larger until Hurricane Hattie split the island in two a few years ago. There is a bar and tables at the tip of Caye Caulker where the Hurricane left a pleasant little beach.

The motto for this place is "Go Slow!" We were often stopped and asked why were were walking so fast. Nova quick-wittedly responded with "we´re hungry!" The atmosphere is relaxed and easy going in a Carribean way (after all, it is in the Carribean Sea). For three days and nights we had it tough - sitting on the dock overlooking the gorgeous blue green sea; jumping in the water for a swim when it got too hot; sipping rum cocktails listening to reggae music; eating freshly caught lobster cooked on the bbq (lobster season opened a couple of days before we arrived); sleeping in (except for Nova who had an early morning dive at the world famous Blue Hole). I spent an entire day doing literally nothing. Intentions were to shop a little, read a lot, write a little, drink a lot and sort out our next travel plan. Well, you know me... got talking to a lovely Canadian couple - tram drivers in Toronto - and before I knew it, I had their entire life stories going back three generations. We sat a Femi´s on a lovely deck for the whole afternoon drinking fruit cocktails and rum cocktails in the warm breeze. Nova had made dinner arrangements with some fellow divers, I invited the talkative Canadians and we were a party of seven that night eating lobster again.

Thursday was our sailing and snorkelling trip. It was fantastic. Our local crew sailed us to three famous Marine Reserves including Hol Chan, where we viewed stunning colourful fish and pretty coral. Highlights wer ethe turtles and sting rays, but equally exciting was our face-to-face introduction to a Manatee (a mammal like a sea cow). No one else but Nova and I saw it up close. It was enormous, probably at least six feet long and really fat. When it saw us, we stopped dead in our tracks and stared at it, and he/she stared right back at us before slowly coming closer for a better look at us. I freaked out a little and backpaddled behind Nova for protection while she tried to keep me calm. Wow! The Manatee was much more beautiful in real life than some of the ugly postcards of this threatened species. The piece-de´resistance was definitely swimming with the Nurse Sharks. At the third and final location for the day I found myself sitting on the edge of our sail boat, flippers on, mask and snorkel at the ready, and about to jump into shark-infested waters! I figured it was better not to dwell too much on this thought, so I jumped in. I´d never done guided snorkelling before and I was entranced. Our crew leader managed to catch a hold of a Nurse shark about a meter long so we could all touch it. Considering there are quite a few companies running these trips, sometimes twice a day, I got the distinct feeling that much of the sea life was used to our leaders bringing tourists to gak at them. Especially when the sting rays would approach them and hug them, knowing they´d get a treat (a dead fish). Our next reward (yes, it keeps getting better) was freshly made cerviche directly from a beautiful conker, and rum cocktails in the afternoon sunshine on our sail back to the island. We invited some of our fellow, now drunken, snorkel trip friends to join us for dinner. It was superb. Yes we had lobster again. I couldnt have been more relaxed.

Hola! Again
Yesterday, Friday (I think) was an uneventful day of travel including cross the border into Mexico, missing our bus because we didnt change our clocks, dodgy tummies and itchy mosquito bites. But we arrived late and in one piece to the southern part of the Mayan Riveria - Tulum where it is hot and touristy. Today we joined the throngs of tourists at Chichen Itza, a very famous Mayan ruin site, more architectually intact than Tikal in Guatemala, but not nearly as beautiful in it´s location. Beef tacos for dinner, for a true Mexican experience. Spanish and Spanglish is coming back into use now.

Less than a week to go now.

Hasta Luego
Karen